Clashing prints, unexpected colour pairings, billowing silhouettes, tartan, plaid, and those unmistakable chokers have been the hallmarks of Vivienne Westwood’s oeuvre. However, her legacy—of punk, activism, fashion, and ultimately, rebellion—extends far beyond these symbols. Westwood has, rather riotously, always incorporated historical influences and her belief in individual freedom, sustainability, and climate change into every seam. 

More than two years after her passing, the ethos of Westwood’s edgy and irreverent approach to design now pulses through the collections of her long-time collaborator and husband, Andreas Kronthaler. Yet, he hasn’t merely carried forward her vision—he has evolved it, adding to it with his own distinct voice. The recent Paris Fashion Week 2025 showcase proved just that, with Kronthaler delivering a show that was equal parts homage and experiment. 

Now, India is set to witness Kronthaler’s vision for Vivienne Westwood on April 1 at the Gateway of India—two years after Dior put up a spectacular show at the same iconic venue. This time, the spirit of Westwood couture is set to meet the rich craftsmanship heritage of India, with looks crafted with the finest natural hand-woven Indian silks in a way that feels radical and deeply rooted. Sourced from Aranya, the textile initiative founded by Priyadarshini Scindia, the queen of Gwalior, the fabrics used are created by Indian artisans using traditional and sustainable techniques.

For a label that is synonymous with balancing heritage with rebellion, how did working with hand-woven fabrics like Chanderi and khadi, influence the design process? “Fabrics are my medium—my tool. When you start working and playing with a fabric, you come to know it. Fabrics, especially hand-woven ones, can have a soul as the human touch is visible. I enjoyed the lightness and the crispness of these fabrics. When we started to design the capsule collection, we first looked at what (pieces) from our current collection and special archives could be made in these fabrics. We remodelled them to fit the character type and even the colour of the material,” Kronthaler elaborated.

Priyadarshini Scindia, who, through Aaranya, works to empower communities in Gwalior while promoting heritage craftsmanship, shared how the collaboration came to be. “This collaboration is meaningful to me on both a personal and professional level. Aaranya was founded with a deep need to question the norms around us, and working with Vivienne Westwood, a brand known for disrupting norms, has been a great learning experience. In Madhya Pradesh, we are surrounded by the region’s rich history. With this collaboration, the handwoven textiles, especially Chanderi, is being showcased to an entirely different audience, and that’s truly exciting. It’s a moment of honouring the craft and the artisans who continue to keep these traditions alive.”

Kronthaler found working with Chanderi an intriguing challenge—its lightness and simplicity were a contrast to the dramatic silhouettes Westwood is known for. “I liked that the fabrics were light, rather simple, and we tried to reflect it in the designs while still maintaining a kind of opulence through the silhouette, volume, and draping,” he explained. Scindia concurs, “Chanderi transcends boundaries, from workwear to luxury fashion. What resonates with me personally is how this fabric, long cherished and revered, is now recognised by a wider audience, showcasing its true beauty and significance.”

Vivienne Westwood Saint Yves Dress

With the curtain set to rise on Vivienne Westwood’s India debut, the label’s collaboration with Aaranya reads like a dialogue between heritage and avant-garde—with a label that can stay true to its roots while remaining as rooted to its context. Westwood’s history looms large even as it sets to take on a new life in a new domain—bold, theatrical, and unapologetic, just as she would have wanted.

Lead image: Getty Images

Inside images: The brand